Updated June 2026
- FHA minimums: 580 credit score with 3.5% down, or 500-579 with 10% down - but individual lenders set their own floors, which is where a broker earns their keep
- For most FHA loans with less than 10% down, mortgage insurance (MIP) lasts the life of the loan - the realistic exit is refinancing into conventional at 20% equity
- FHA is NOT just for first-time buyers, there's no income limit, and your entire down payment can be a gift from family
- Sellers can legally prefer non-FHA offers, but a fully underwritten pre-approval and a condition-realistic house close most of that gap
- Post-bankruptcy timelines: roughly 2 years after Chapter 7 discharge, as little as 12 months into a Chapter 13 plan, 3 years after foreclosure
FHA loans generate more questions than any other program I work with - and most of the articles out there only answer the easy ones. So let's go past the basics: the mortgage insurance trap nobody warns you about, why your offers keep losing, which houses to skip, and how the gift-money paper trail actually works. These are the questions borrowers ask me once they're actually in the process, answered the way I'd answer them across the desk.
What Credit Score Do You Need for an FHA Loan?
The FHA's official floor is a 580 credit score for the 3.5% down payment program, and 500-579 if you can put 10% down. That's the rule on paper. In practice, many lenders add their own minimums on top - called overlays - and won't touch anything below 600 or 620 no matter what FHA allows.
This is exactly why I'm a broker and not tied to one bank. With access to 100+ wholesale lenders, I can usually find the ones that actually lend down to the true FHA floor, while a borrower walking into a single bank just hears "no" and assumes that's the final answer.
If you're sitting in the 560-620 range and debating whether to apply now or spend a year repairing credit first, here's my honest take: find out where you actually stand before you decide. Sometimes a score is 15 points away from a better tier because of one collection or a maxed-out card, and that's fixable in 30-60 days - not 12 months. Other times the credit profile genuinely needs time, and applying too early just burns an inquiry. A good loan officer will tell you which situation you're in for free. I also wrote about the credit score myths that hold buyers back - worth a read if you've been told you need a 700 to buy a house.
How Much Do You Have to Put Down on an FHA Loan?
3.5% of the purchase price, as long as your credit score is 580 or higher. On a $300,000 home that's $10,500. On a $450,000 home it's $15,750. If your score is between 500 and 579, the requirement jumps to 10% down.
And here's the part that surprises people: that 3.5% doesn't all have to come from your own savings. It can come from a gift (more on that below), or from a down payment assistance program layered on top of the FHA loan. I've seen buyers get to the closing table with very little of their own money in the deal - legitimately and by the book.
Are Closing Costs Higher on an FHA Loan, and Can the Seller Pay Them?
FHA closing costs run about the same 2-5% of the loan amount as any other mortgage, with one addition: the upfront mortgage insurance premium of 1.75% of the loan amount. Before you panic - almost everyone finances that 1.75% into the loan rather than paying it in cash, so it raises your loan balance slightly but not your cash-to-close.
The good news: FHA allows seller concessions up to 6% of the purchase price - double what conventional allows on a low-down-payment loan. In a balanced or buyer-leaning market, negotiating the seller to cover some or all of your closing costs is one of the most effective ways to shrink your cash-to-close. Run your full numbers, including the upfront MIP, in my loan calculators.
Should I Go FHA or Conventional as a First-Time Home Buyer?
Quick decision rule: if your credit score is roughly 680 or higher and you can put 5% or more down, conventional usually wins long-term because its mortgage insurance is cancellable and often cheaper. If your score is below 680, your down payment is thin, or your debt-to-income ratio is high, FHA usually wins - and not just on approval odds.
Here's the why: conventional PMI is priced off your credit score, so a 640 borrower pays dramatically more for PMI than a 760 borrower. FHA's mortgage insurance costs the same regardless of credit score. That's the crossover point most online calculators miss.
I've written a full side-by-side on this - down payments, mortgage insurance math, appraisal differences, the whole thing - in my FHA vs. conventional comparison, so I won't re-litigate it here. The short answer is that this is a math problem specific to your credit score and down payment, not a matter of one program being "better."
How Do I Get Rid of the Mortgage Insurance on My FHA Loan?
For most FHA loans closed after June 3, 2013 with the standard 3.5% down, you can't cancel the mortgage insurance - MIP stays for the life of the loan. The realistic way out is refinancing into a conventional loan once you have 20% equity. If you put 10% or more down at purchase, your MIP drops off automatically after 11 years.
I know that's not what most FHA homeowners want to hear. Plenty of people were told - or assumed - that MIP works like conventional PMI and falls off at 20% equity. It doesn't. Here's the actual rule set:
| Your FHA Loan | How Long MIP Lasts |
|---|---|
| Closed after June 3, 2013, less than 10% down | Life of the loan |
| Closed after June 3, 2013, 10% or more down | 11 years |
| Closed before June 3, 2013 | Older cancellation rules may apply - worth reviewing your specific loan |
So the play for most FHA homeowners is: track your equity. Between your principal payments and home appreciation, 20% equity often arrives years before people expect it. Once you're there - and your credit supports conventional pricing - a refinance into a conventional loan kills the MIP permanently. Whether the rest of the refinance math works depends on where rates are when you do it, which is exactly the analysis I cover in the section on refinancing out of FHA below.
Do You Have to Be a First-Time Home Buyer to Get an FHA Loan?
No. This is one of the most persistent myths in mortgage lending. FHA has no first-time buyer requirement - you can use it on your third house at age 60. What FHA does require is that the home be your primary residence. It's an owner-occupancy program, not a first-timer program.
The confusion comes from FHA being heavily marketed to first-time buyers (because the low down payment and flexible credit fit that group well) and from people mixing it up with state and local first-time buyer assistance programs, which often do have first-timer rules.
How Long Do I Have to Live in the House Before I Can Rent It Out?
One year. When you sign an FHA loan, you certify that you'll occupy the home as your primary residence for at least 12 months. After that year, you can move out and rent it - legally and with no refinance required. Renting it out before the year is up, or never moving in at all, is occupancy fraud, and lenders take it seriously. If your plan is house-hacking or a future rental, that's fine - just live there for the year first.
Can You Have Two FHA Loans at the Same Time?
Generally no - but there are narrow exceptions. The main ones: relocating for work beyond reasonable commuting distance (typically 100+ miles), a growing family that has outgrown the current home (you'll usually need 25% equity in the home you're leaving), or leaving a home you co-signed on. If one of those fits, you may be able to keep your current FHA home and buy the next one with FHA too. These cases are documentation-heavy, so talk it through before you make plans around it.
What Disqualifies a House From an FHA Loan?
FHA appraisers check the property against HUD's minimum property requirements, which boil down to three S's: the home must be safe, sound, and secure. The most common deal-killers I see:
- Peeling or chipping paint on homes built before 1978 - lead paint rules; this is the #1 surprise flag on older homes
- Roof problems - active leaks or a roof near the end of its life
- No permanent, working heat source - space heaters don't count
- Exposed wiring, missing outlet covers, or other electrical hazards
- Broken windows, missing handrails on stairs, trip hazards
- Structural or foundation issues - significant cracks, water intrusion, sagging floors
- Non-functioning plumbing or well/septic problems
Notice what's NOT on that list: ugly. Dated kitchens, worn carpet, bad wallpaper, a 1980s bathroom - all of that passes FHA just fine. FHA is checking for hazards, not style. So when you're shopping older homes, don't skip a house because it needs cosmetic work; skip it (or budget for it) when you see safety and systems issues.
If the appraiser flags repairs, the deal isn't automatically dead. Sellers often agree to fix flagged items before closing because the next FHA or VA buyer will hit the same flags. And for homes that need real work, an FHA 203(k) renovation loan lets you finance the purchase and the repairs in one loan - a different process, but a real option for the right fixer.
Why Do Sellers Not Want FHA Offers, and Can They Refuse Mine?
Yes, a seller can legally pass on your offer because of your financing. Fair housing law protects people - race, religion, national origin, family status, and so on - not loan types. So the practical question isn't whether the FHA stigma is fair; it's how to beat it.
First, understand what sellers are actually worried about:
- Repair flags: the appraisal conditions we just covered - sellers fear being forced into repairs
- The amendatory clause: FHA buyers can walk away with their deposit if the appraisal comes in below the purchase price, which shifts appraisal risk onto the seller
- The "weak buyer" assumption: some listing agents read FHA as code for shaky finances
- Timeline fears: a reputation for slow closings that's mostly outdated - with a responsive lender, FHA closes on essentially the same calendar as conventional
Now, how to make your FHA offer stick in a competitive market:
- Get fully underwritten before you offer, not just pre-qualified. A pre-approval where an underwriter has already reviewed your income, assets, and credit is the single strongest answer to the "weak buyer" assumption. It makes your financing nearly as solid as cash.
- Pick condition-realistic homes. If the listing photos show peeling paint on a 1955 house and a tarp on the roof, your appraisal will flag it. Aim your FHA offers at homes that will pass, and the repair objection disappears.
- Have your loan officer call the listing agent. A two-minute call explaining that the file is already underwritten and the close date is real changes how your offer gets presented to the seller. I do this routinely - it works.
- Tighten the rest of the offer. A clean timeline, reasonable contingency windows, and flexibility on the seller's move-out date all offset financing-type concerns.
What Is the Maximum Amount You Can Borrow With an FHA Loan?
For 2026, the FHA loan limit floor is $541,287 for a single-family home in standard-cost counties. High-cost counties - much of coastal California, for example - get substantially higher limits, and 2-4 unit properties have higher limits still. The number that matters is your specific county's limit, which takes about a minute to look up.
Two practical notes. First, the limit caps the loan amount, not the purchase price - if you bring a bigger down payment, you can buy above the limit. Second, if the homes you're shopping consistently sit above your county's FHA limit, that doesn't end your search; it just moves the conversation to conventional or jumbo financing, and we compare from there.
Is There an Income Limit for FHA Loans?
No. FHA has no income cap - you cannot make "too much money" for an FHA loan. People confuse FHA with USDA loans and with many down payment assistance programs, which do have income limits. FHA itself doesn't care if you earn $40,000 or $400,000.
What FHA does limit is your debt-to-income ratio - how much of your gross monthly income goes to debt payments including the new mortgage. FHA is actually one of the most flexible programs here: with strong compensating factors and automated underwriting approval, I've seen FHA approvals at debt-to-income ratios that conventional would never allow, sometimes north of 50%. So if your concern is "I make good money but I carry a lot of debt," FHA may fit you better than you think.
Can My Parents Give Me the Money for an FHA Down Payment?
Yes - your entire 3.5% down payment, and your closing costs, can come from gift funds. FHA explicitly allows it. The gift can come from family members, and in some cases from a close friend with a documented relationship, your employer, or a charitable organization. It cannot come from anyone with a stake in the sale - the seller, the agent, or the builder (their money flows through the separate seller-concession rules instead).
What trips people up isn't the gift - it's the paperwork. Underwriting needs to confirm the money is a true gift and not a hidden loan, because a loan would change your debt picture. Here's what the file needs:
- A gift letter signed by the donor, stating the amount, their relationship to you, and - the key sentence - that no repayment is expected or required
- A paper trail: documentation showing the money leaving the donor's account and arriving in yours, or being wired directly to escrow at closing
- Sometimes the donor's bank statement showing they had the funds - lenders vary on this, and it surprises donors, so warn your parents in advance
My standing advice: don't move money around casually in the 60 days before you apply. Cash deposits and account-hopping create questions that take weeks to paper over. Tell your loan officer about the gift early, and we'll route it the clean way the first time.
How Soon After Bankruptcy or Foreclosure Can I Get an FHA Loan?
FHA has the shortest, most forgiving waiting periods of any mainstream loan program - that's a big part of why it exists. The standard timelines:
| Credit Event | FHA Waiting Period |
|---|---|
| Chapter 7 bankruptcy | 2 years from discharge (as little as 12 months with documented extenuating circumstances) |
| Chapter 13 bankruptcy | Possible after 12 months of on-time plan payments, with court/trustee approval - you don't have to wait for discharge |
| Foreclosure | 3 years from the date the foreclosure completed |
| Short sale / deed-in-lieu | Generally 3 years |
For comparison, conventional loans typically want 4 years after a Chapter 7 and 7 years after a foreclosure. If you've had a credit event, FHA is usually your fastest road back to homeownership.
What you do during the waiting period matters as much as the clock. Underwriters want to see re-established credit: 12+ months of on-time payments on everything, no new collections or late payments after the bankruptcy, and ideally a couple of active accounts (a secured card counts) building positive history. A bankruptcy followed by spotless credit reads as a turned page. A bankruptcy followed by new late payments reads as an ongoing problem - and that second pattern gets denied even after the waiting period has passed.
When Should I Refinance My FHA Loan to a Conventional Loan?
The trigger points are 20% equity and a credit score that has improved since you bought - realistically 680 or better for the math to favor you, even though conventional technically allows 620. Hit both, and refinancing to conventional eliminates your MIP entirely, which is often worth one to a few hundred dollars a month depending on your loan size.
But - and this is the part a calculator won't tell you - the decision has three moving parts, not one:
- The MIP savings: the clearest win; this payment goes away completely
- The rate environment: if your FHA rate is well below today's rates, killing MIP by taking a meaningfully higher rate can be a net loss; if rates are at or below your current rate, it's usually a clean win
- Closing costs vs. how long you'll stay: a refinance has costs, and you need enough months in the home for the monthly savings to pay them back
One more option people forget: if rates have dropped but you don't yet have the equity or credit for conventional, an FHA streamline refinance can lower your rate with minimal documentation and no appraisal in most cases - you keep MIP, but you cut the payment now and refinance to conventional later. I walk through the full break-even framework in my guide to refinancing in 2026, and you can run your own numbers in the calculators.
When to Talk to a Broker
If you noticed a pattern in these answers, it's this: FHA's official rules and what individual lenders actually do are two different things. Overlays on credit scores, appetite for high debt-to-income files, comfort with Chapter 13 buyers, speed on underwritten pre-approvals - these vary enormously from lender to lender. That's the whole argument for working with a broker: I shop your specific file across 100+ wholesale lenders and match it to the one that says yes on the best terms, instead of making you fit one bank's box.
I'm Randy Mathis, Executive Branch Manager at Lumin Lending Inc. (NMLS 1516760), licensed in 13 states. If you're weighing FHA against your other options, trying to escape your MIP, or mapping a comeback after a credit event, the consultation is free and there's no obligation. Start at my FHA loan program page, check the FAQ, or apply online when you're ready - I'll tell you straight whether FHA is your best tool or just the most familiar one.

