Thinking About Buying Your First Home?
If you're reading this, you're probably somewhere between "I think I can do this" and "there's no way I can figure all of this out." I hear you. When I sit down with first-time buyers, that mix of excitement and uncertainty is the most common thing I see. The good news? It's way more doable than you think — and you don't have to figure it out alone.
I've helped hundreds of people navigate their first home purchase, and I'm going to walk you through exactly what you need to know heading into 2026.
Step 1: Get Clear on Your Finances
Before you start scrolling Zillow (we've all been there), take a real look at where you stand financially. Here's what matters:
- Credit score: You don't need an 800. FHA loans go as low as 580, and conventional can work with a 620. If you're below that, I can show you exactly what to focus on to move the needle fast.
- Debt-to-income ratio (DTI): Lenders look at how much of your monthly income goes to debt payments. Ideally under 45%, but there's flexibility depending on the program.
- Savings: You'll need funds for your down payment and closing costs. But don't assume you need 20% down — most first-time buyers put down far less.
Step 2: Understand Your Down Payment Options
This is where a lot of people get stuck. They hear "20% down" and think homeownership is years away. Let me clear that up:
- Conventional loans: As low as 3% down for first-time buyers
- FHA loans: 3.5% down with a 580+ credit score
- VA loans: 0% down for eligible veterans and active-duty service members
- Down payment assistance (DPA): State and local programs that can cover part or all of your down payment — available in many of the 24 states I'm licensed in
On a $400,000 home, 3% down is $12,000 — not $80,000. That changes the math for a lot of people.
Step 3: FHA vs. Conventional — Which One?
This is one of the most common questions I get. Here's the short version:
- FHA is great if your credit score is under 700 or you have a higher DTI. The trade-off is mortgage insurance for the life of the loan (unless you refinance later).
- Conventional is typically better if your score is 700+ and you can put at least 5% down. Mortgage insurance drops off once you hit 20% equity.
Neither one is universally "better." It depends on your situation, which is exactly why I run the numbers both ways for every client.
Step 4: Get Pre-Approved (Not Just Pre-Qualified)
Pre-qualification is a rough estimate. Pre-approval means a lender has actually reviewed your income, credit, and assets. In today's market, sellers take pre-approved buyers more seriously — and so do their agents.
The pre-approval process with me usually takes less than a day. You'll know exactly what you can afford, and you'll have a letter ready when you find the right home.
Step 5: Work With a Broker, Not Just a Bank
Here's something most people don't realize: when you go to a bank, you're limited to that bank's products and rates. When you work with me, I have access to over 160 lenders. That means I can shop the entire market to find you the best rate and the right program — not just whatever one company happens to offer.
I don't work for the lender. I work for you. My job is to find the best deal for your specific situation, period.
What to Expect in 2026
Rates have come down from their 2024 peaks, and more inventory is hitting the market. That's a solid combination for first-time buyers. There are also new down payment assistance programs rolling out this year across multiple states, and I stay on top of every one of them.
Ready to Take the First Step?
You don't need to have everything figured out before we talk. That's literally what I'm here for. Schedule a free consultation and we'll walk through your numbers, your options, and your timeline. No pressure, no hard sell — just a clear picture of where you stand and what's possible.
